The LVMH Prize has been nurturing budding talents for over a decade. Winners or not, the designers who’ve participated have helped shape the current fashion landscape. SS Daley’s Steven Stokey-Daley, who won the 2022 edition, recently announced that Harry Styles took a minority stake in his business. Simon Porte Jacquemus built one of the buzziest independent labels of today after his Special Prize win in 2015, ditto Bode’s Emily Adams Bode Aujla, who was a finalist in 2019. Today, the Prize is announcing its 2024 list of semifinalists, culled from over 2,500 candidates, a record number of entries. Some of them will no doubt be shaping the industry of a decade from now.
The 20 brands selected, down from last year’s 22, come from 18 countries, including Mexico, Moldova and, for the first time, Togo. “This year’s edition is remarkable for the unique, distinctive designs and for the return of sophisticated womenswear collections,” said Delphine Arnault, CEO of Christian Dior. She might’ve been talking about semifinalists Elena Velez, Michael Stewart of Standing Ground, or Karoline Vitto, all of whom have charmed the industry — and a celebrity or two — with their distinct perspectives on contemporary womenswear.
But it’s also worth noting that almost half of the brands this year are focused on menswear, which showcases the growth of the category and its increasing editorial significance. Many of these designers, from Agbobly’s Jacques Agbobly and Hodakova’s Ellen Hodakova Larsson to Derek Cheng and Alex Po of Ponder.er, have also become known for their intricate hand-craftsmanship, another industry focus of late. “Many of these brands place research and high aesthetic standards at the heart of their approach, values that are also championed by the new Savoir-Faire Prize,” said Arnault of the new category. “This prize underlines the importance of craftsmanship, innovation, and sustainability, three topics at the heart of fashion and luxury industry commitments today.”
The public will once again be able to vote for their eight favourite candidates to carry into the finals. The jury is an 85-member group of industry professionals.
The 20 semifinalists will present their collections in Paris on 29 February and 1 March. The winner of this year’s LVMH Prize will receive an endowment of €400,000 and a one-year mentorship by a dedicated LVMH team. The winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize will receive a €200,000 endowment alongside a one-year mentorship, and the Savoir-Faire Prize will be awarded to a young brand for exceptional craftsmanship, technical expertise, and innovation, alongside another €200,000 endowment and a one-year mentorship. Read through to discover this year’s brands.
Agobly, womenswear and menswear label by the New York-based, Togolese designer Jacques Agbobly.
Aubero, a menswear brand by the American designer Julian Louie.
Campillo, a menswear label by the Mexican designer Patricio Campillo.
Chiahung Su, a genderless collection by the Taiwanese designer Chia Hung Su.
Duran Lantink, a men’s, women’s, and genderless label by the Dutch designer Duran Lantink.
Elena Velez, a womenswear brand by the American designer Elena Velez.
Fidan Novruzova, a womenswear label by Fidan Novruzova from Moldova.
Hodakova, a womenswear collection by the Swedish designer Ellen Hodavoka Larsson.
JiyongKim, a menswear brand by Jiyong Kim from South Korea
Karoline Vitto, a womenswear label by London-based, Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto.
Khoki, a menswear collection by Koki Abe from Japan.
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, a womenswear brand by Marie Adam-Leenaerdt from Belgium.
Niccolò Pasqualetti, a genderless collection by the Italian designer Niccolò Pasqualetti.
Paolo Carzana, a womenswear and menswear label by Paolo Carzana from the United Kingdom.
Pauline Dujancourt, a womenswear brand by Pauline Dujancourt from France.
Ponder.er, a genderless collection by Derek Cheng and Alex Po from China.
Standing Ground, a womenswear label by the Irish designer Michael Stewart.
Vautrait, a womenswear brand by Yonathan Carmel from Israel.
Who Decides War, a New York-based womenswear and menswear label by Everard Best and Tela D’Amore Best.
Ya Yi, a womenswear collection by Spanish-Chinese designer Yayi Chen Zhou.
