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What happened?
On 5 February, just ahead of New York Fashion Week, Gap Inc announced its new executive vice president and creative director, American designer Zac Posen. Posen will be the first to oversee design across Gap Inc’s four brands: Gap, Banana Republic, Athleta and Old Navy, where he’s also taking on the additional role of chief creative officer. Posen will be working closely with Gap Inc president and CEO Richard Dickson, who was appointed to the role in July 2023, as a “cultural curator and creative partner”. At Old Navy, he’ll report to Horacio Barbeito, Old Navy’s brand president and chief executive, and lead design, merchandising and marketing.
“Gap Inc and its brands have shaped American fashion and pop culture for decades and there’s so much potential at Old Navy,” Posen, who will relocate to San Francisco for the role, said in the release. “I’m eager to join Gap Inc now as brand reinvigoration kicks up across the portfolio, rooted in great product, experiences and a new culture of creativity.”
“I’m thrilled to welcome Zac Posen, one of America’s most celebrated designers, at the onset of an exciting new chapter for Gap Inc,” Dickson said in a statement. “His technical expertise and cultural clarity have consistently evolved American fashion, making him a great fit for the company as we ignite a new culture of creativity across the portfolio and reinvigorate our storied brands.”
Why does it matter?
It’s the first time the American retailer has had one designer overseeing all of its brands, and it’s the most high-profile designer appointment for the company in years. Other notable names that have passed through Gap Inc’s doors include Patrick Robinson and Rebekka Bay for Gap, Simon Kneen and Marissa Webb for Banana Republic and Todd Oldham for Old Navy.
Posen is stepping in at a critical time for Gap. The company has been in a slump in recent years, as it’s struggled to maintain relevance comparable to its nineties glory days. The company is eyeing a rebrand, a goal it made clear when hiring Mattel exec Dickson off the back of his Barbie success story. Dickson replaced former CEO Sonia Syngal, who stepped down in 2022. “His experience as a proven transformational brand builder and belief in the power of inclusivity, makes him a perfect fit for Gap Inc,” interim CEO Bobby Martin said at the time. It’s early days; at November’s third-quarter earnings, revenues were down 7 per cent year-on-year, at $3.8 billion.
Dickson has been making moves to rejig Gap’s leadership team, starting last month with new appointments Eric Chan, who joined as chief business and strategy officer, and Amy Thompson as chief people officer. Posen’s appointment is his splashiest move yet.
Posen isn’t the obvious choice for Gap. The designer, whose eponymous label shuttered in 2019, is best known for his red carpet dressing — not where the group’s brands operate. (The Zac Posen name and IP is now under licensor Centric Brands.) He also recently contributed costumes to Ryan Murphy’s Feud: Capote Vs. The Swans television series. Posen did offer ready-to-wear, and worked at Brooks Brothers as creative director from 2014 to 2020, so everyday dressing isn’t completely out of the designer’s repertoire.
Fashion insiders will be watching for Posen’s presence to be felt across the Gap portfolio. Stylist Lakyn Carlton tweeted: “As a lifelong Zac-head, I think Zac Posen at Gap is a misuse of his talents, at best, but I’m hoping to be proven wrong! So happy to have him back, regardless.” Washington Post fashion writer Rachel Tashjian described the announcement as “a genuine fashion twist”.
For Gap and Banana Republic, most recent fashion clout has come from fashion collaborations. Peter Do recently designed a capsule for Banana Republic, which followed collabs with Charles Harbison in 2021 and Roland Mouret back in 2014. Last year, Gap collaborated with Loveshackfancy and New York mainstay Dapper Dan (on separate occasions). And in 2020, Gap famously partnered up with Kanye West’s Yeezy, before shuttering the much-hyped partnership in 2022 amid controversy.
Here’s hoping Posen’s tenure is smoother sailing.
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