When Sephora put out a rewards beauty advent calendar for this holiday season, available to consumers in the US for 2,500 loyalty points, could it have expected such a backlash?
If advent calendars of years past are any indication, yes. The fun holiday marketing play has become a lightning rod for criticism, as recipients share daily reveals on social media and often tear what’s inside to shreds — complaining that the contents don’t match the value of what was advertised, to their disappointment. Are they worth the risk? And how can brands and retailers ensure they’re getting it right?
Sephora has a range of popular beauty advent calendars that include an array of cosmetic or skincare products. However, in this case, the ‘Beauty Insider’ calendar — which is only available in the US — contained mostly accessories, such as makeup brushes. Some customers complained that they had expected more given they had to use 2,500 points to buy it (one point is accrued for every $1 spent).
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On social media, beauty influencer Robert Welsh took to his 1.6 million YouTube subscribers to speak about the offering. “This is the most hilarious advent calendar I have ever seen,” he said to the camera, breaking down what he called the “disappointing” curation. Some customers also took to TikTok and Sephora’s Beauty Insider Community pages to complain. (Sephora US declined to comment for this story.)
Before Sephora, in 2022, Dior faced a backlash with its $3,500 advent calendar, curated of sample-sized and some full-sized products. Chanel experienced headwinds with its $825 beauty advent calendar, consisting of miniature-sized products and accessories such as a paper flip book and an interlocking CC logo keychain, in 2021. (Dior declined to comment; Chanel did not respond.)
Global management consulting firm Bain & Company wrote in a holiday report that as economic pressures mount, value for money has become a top priority for consumers heading into the holiday season, leading them to spend more cautiously. Bain’s 2024 forecast indicates a projected 1 per cent decline or flat performance across the beauty, health and personal care sectors.
“Where consumers have to justify treat spending, the advent calendars that stick to the old model of pawning off mini samples and pointless accessories are being called out,” says Lisa Payne, head of beauty at trend forecasting agency Stylus. “Brands that market themselves as ultra-luxurious or exclusive are opening themselves up to criticism if the goods don’t measure up to expectations.”
Nonetheless, experts say advent calendars remain a big opportunity for beauty brands.
According to Circana, a US marketing and consumer insights platform, beauty advent calendars generated $19.7 million in sales in the US in the final quarter of 2023, up 54 per cent year-on-year. On TikTok, views of #BeautyAdventCalendar are up 83 per cent compared to last year with an average of 8.1 million weekly views since mid-October, according to Spate.
More brands are hopping on board. Luxury skincare brand Augustinus Bader launched its first own-brand advent calendar this year, filled with 12 of its signature skincare and haircare products (eight full-sized), priced at £445 plus 2,225 loyalty points (worth over £700) after seeing customer demand ramp up over the years. It sold out in two weeks. What surprised CEO Charles Rosier, was the significant acquisition increase in new customers off the back.
Last year, e-tailer Cult Beauty sold out its units in the thousands and this year it sold out in three weeks. Retailers like Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Look Fantastic and Liberty have already sold out. “We sold out in just over two months,” says Liberty beauty buyer Laura Freitas. “Demand was exceptionally high, demonstrating continued popularity.”
“The buzz and hype around advent calendars keep growing,” says Payne. She explains that advent calendars consistently draw in greater engagement and new customers as offerings become more sophisticated and inventive, “especially those created by brands shrewd enough to balance value with prestige”.
Getting it right
Experts say doing an advent calendar well comes down to striking the right balance between a good deal and a good pay-off. An abundance of beauty samples or accessories attached to an expensive price tag doesn’t perform well with consumers today, particularly as competition and value sentiment rise.
What does? “Exclusive product bundles, unique formulations or personalised offerings provide consumers with compelling reasons to choose between brands,” says Katelyn Winker, VP of client strategy and services at e-commerce and marketing agency Front Row.
For Payne, it comes down to smart and commercially sound proposals. Going forward, “a brand’s products should be picked based on their virality and the conversation surrounding it — this guarantees a covet-level status,” she says.
A calendar’s box and packaging need greater consideration, she adds. “Traditional Christmas and season-specific packaging are bound to be used and thrown away after the holiday season. To overcome this, brands should buck the tradition and present a calendar offering for playful reuse and display year-round.” Take Charlotte Tilbury, which has offered a reusable treasure chest-designed advent calendar this year; as has French retailer Oh My Cream with its leopard print travel advent case, and makeup brand Benefit with its shopping basket advent calendar, primed for storage use beyond the holidays.
Some brands have also reconsidered their advent calendar value to meet consumers’ higher expectations for quality and affordability in the current climate. Freitas says Liberty’s calendar contains beauty products worth £1,200 in value at retail — an increase on last year — but it still sells for £260. Cult Beauty has also increased its calendar product count from 39 to 42, with 23 full-sized products (up from 20), while reducing the price to £195 compared with £225 in 2023.
Future wins
Looking ahead, Winker believes shoppers will seek brands that prioritise their individual needs.
“Advent calendars are inherently appealing due to their variety, but in a personalised market, they can be tailored to consumer preferences for even greater impact. Brands can analyse sales data and customer preferences to curate calendars that align with specific needs,” she explains. “For instance, a haircare brand could offer calendars designed for different hair types, like textured, fine or thick hair, with masks, oils and treatments optimised for each type. Similarly, a skincare brand might curate advent calendars based on skin types — such as oily, dry or acne-prone — featuring cleansers, serums and other targeted treatments.”
To Winker, this approach allows customers to enjoy the surprise element of an advent calendar while ensuring the products are relevant and beneficial to their individual beauty needs.
Advent calendars that celebrate different periods to the standard 24-day advent are another way for brands to stand out in a crowded market. Fragrance brand Maison Francis Kurkdjian launched its £950 countdown calendar exclusively at Harrods to celebrate the time between Christmas and New Year, while perfume house Ormonde Jayne has an “eight days of Christmas” calendar for £695. “It’s one way to diversify a brand offering in the heavily competitive market,” says Payne.
Beauty advent calendars continue to be holiday goldmines for brands, but consumers have raised the bar. With no tolerance left for weak line-ups, shoppers expect thoughtfully curated calendars that deliver quality and excitement. Brands now have a clear message: the days of poor holiday offerings are over and innovation is key to staying competitive in the festive beauty race.
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